2 cups (500 mL) whole wheat flour
1 tsp. (5 mL) baking powder
1/4 tsp. (2 mL) salt
1/2 cup (125 mL) water or milk
1/4 cup (60 mL) canola oil
1 large egg
2 Tbsp. (30 mL) honey
1 tsp. (5 mL) cinnamon
1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)
Cream cheese drizzle (optional):
1/4 cup (60 mL) light cream cheese
1-2 Tbsp. (15-30 mL) milk or water
Preheat oven to 350°F.
In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl stir together water, oil and egg. Add to the dry ingredients and stir just until you have a soft dough.
On a lightly floured surface, roll or pat the dough into a rectangle that measures roughly 8×14-inch. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with cinnamon and nuts, if using. Starting from a long edge, roll up jelly-role style and pinch the edge to seal. Using a sharp serrated knife or (even better) dental floss, slice half an inch thick and place slices cut side down on a cookie sheet that has been sprayed with nonstick spray.
Bake for about 15 minutes, until springy to the touch. Wait until they have cooled completely before you spread them with cream cheese.
Makes about 2 dozen biscuits. Store extra in a tightly covered container of freeze. If they are frosted, store the container in the fridge.
Directions and ingredients
1. Preheat oven to 325 F
2. In a large bowl, combine
4. Shape the dough by whatever means works for you. Roll it and press out shapes using cookie cutter. Roll into a tube and cut off small pieces. Roll flat and cut into strips. Whatever works for you will be fine.
4. Arrange on an ungreased cookie sheet, leaving space between. If you want them to be glossy than brush them with a bit of milk or lightly beaten egg to brush over top.
5. Bake for about 40 minutes, then turn off the oven and let them sit there until the oven cools to let them harden further.
I'll be right up front.. I tend not to worry about litter box habits since
1. my rabbits are housed in hygienic wire bottomed cages.
2. whenever I've had to litter train a rabbit it has been so unbelievably easy to not even be an issue.
When I've advised people on litter box training I tell them NOT to put the litter box in right away, but give bunny a chance to pick their potty corner (with young bunnies can take a week or so) THEN take the dirty litter, place in litter box, put litter box in the same corner. Hanging hay in the corner seems to help.
With adult bunnies I just take some urine based litter put in a litter box wherever I like and the adult bunny will use it without fail.
BUT recently I had a lady email. She's having trouble getting a 100% litter box trained bunny.
Well.. I've been talking with folks. Getting a 100% trained bunny is not generally going to happen. You see what happens is that rabbits scent mark. They will almost always leave some bunny berries behind as they explore their living space.
Bunny berries are REALLY easy to clean up. Just sweep 'em into a dust pan and into your composter if you have one, or garbage if you don't.
NOW the problem may be that your young rabbit is maturing
Maturing rabbits, just like maturing teenagers, sometimes have less than ideal bathroom habits. They have to deal with hormones and learning (or re-learning) correct habits. Give them time to sort it through OR if it's being problematic... Get a neutering job done. Neutering helps get rid of the hormones (particularly in a boy rabbit) and will in a girl rabbit as long as the job is done completely.
Whenever I have needed to bathe my rabbit I simply have run some warm water, stuck bunny into it. swished him/her around and then held a towel until dry. Easy peasey. :) They never get overly dirty so they don't really need that much of a bath.
BUT some bunnies get rather dirty sometimes...bucks from pee spray (if they are sprayers) and sometimes does get messy when caring for a litter and wee youngsters when learning to care for themselves sometimes just need a helping hand. These are cases OUT OF THE ORDINARY.
Normally bunnies do NOT need to be bathed. They keep themselves clean.
There are two main methods
1. Dry method. use cornstarch, work it into the coat and brush it out. As it comes out it takes the dirt with it.
2. Wet Method. Give the rabbit a bath in warm water. Towel dry the bunny well. Do not get the rabbit wetter than you have to. Really no need to wash the whole rabbit if only his feet and rear end are dirty.
To get rid of pee stains use vinegar or lemon juice. Just spritz it on, wait a spell and then rinse it off. :)
The "heel" command is a formal obedience exercise in which a dog walks precisely by a handler's knee, matching her pace and immediately sitting when the handler halts. Your four-legged friend should know this valuable obedience exercise-for your sake and his.
This is the formal thing to do. :) Do most people want their dog to heel? no.. They simply want their dog to walk with a loose leash. BUT teaching a heel is very valuable.
1. useful for agility training when you want your dog in close to you.
2. useful for walking through crowds and on busy streets
3. useful for when you are walking your dog off-leash and need your dog to stay really close to you.
A dog walking at heel is staying close, paying close attention, and is right beside you.
So just how do you teach a dog to walk at heel?
1. get your dogs attention, get your dog to watch you and pay attention to you. There are different ways to do this. Get your dogs attention by calling his name, tapping on his head, making noises or any other way you can think of. This is a command in and of itself.
2. teach your dog where to stand. For most people a heel is having your dog stand with their head at your left knee (or hip/ankle) depending on the size of the dog. he's to stay in that position regardless of how fast you move or in which direction you move in. NOW.. for agility folks...you might want to teach your dog to heel on both sides as it's a useful tool to have. :) have a different command for each side. Me...I always taught my dog to walk on my right side as that's what worked for me. Doesn't really matter as long as you teach them to do so consistently.
3. Once your dog is in position. Say Rover (or whatever the dogs name is) HEEL. and start walking forward. When the dog starts with you. Stop and praise him! Treat him with food. And then try again. Practice is key.
4. gradually increase the length of time you walk with him before treating him.
If your dog starts to forge ahead, a good trick to correct that is to turn around calling your dogs name and walk in the opposite direction.
some people will do this:
When he tries to forge ahead, turn sharply and step directly in his path, making a 90 degree turn and heading off in a new direction. Once again, turn sharply, as if walking along a square. The dog will be used to leading you, and may be surprised or confused. Walk in a straight line again, until the dog tries to forge past you. Pull the same stunt. Doing this for 5-15 minutes a day is enough. Some dogs learn after the first session, but some dogs who have been used to leading you for years may take longer. This lesson will teach your dog that YOU are the one who knows where you are going, and not him.:
there are sites on-line to teach you how to train your dog to heel, I hope this has given you a start. :)
Teaching a dog to come, or teaching a good recall, is a tool that EVERY dog and owner should have in their tool box.
As with all training, proof it. As in, do in anywhere and everywhere, all the time. Noise, busy streets, quiet bushes, bustling people, just walking randomly etc. Fido come! Fido, what a good dog! Reward! :)
A PDF on using a clicker training method of teaching Come.
Other resources you may find helpful: